Hiedler Osterreich Gruner Veltliner 2019 92pts
The Hiedler triumvirate, Ludwig Hiedler with sons Ludwig Jr. and Dietmar, is crafting some of the most interesting, texturally compelling wines of the Kamptal. In the last year, Ludwig Sr has taken a step back and his sons are now running the show. The owl is the unmistakable symbol of this traditional estate in Langenlois, family-operated since 1856. The Archduchy of Austria honored the estate for its wine quality in the late 19th-century, and this has continued to inspire this producer’s high aspirations ever since.
The estate was a pioneer in ecological winegrowing which continues in the present day; only sustainable vineyard practices are implemented. Green vegetation and wild herbs ensure vital soils and a healthy ecosystem for beneficial organisms. The vines are tended by hand, and the soils mechanically. Only organic compost is used to fertilize the soils. The use of copper is limited to a minimum. Strict abstinence of herbicides and pesticides has been in effect for several decades. All grapes are ultimately selectively harvested by hand, as it has always been done.
The family extends their natural approach to their vines in the cellar as well. For many years, Ludwig Hiedler has worked with local Kamptal yeast, without enzymes or the sulfurization of the juice. After fermentation, the wines are matured in either stainless steel or casks made with acacia, employing extended lees contact and selective bâtonnage. Notably, malolactic fermentation is not blocked but allowed to occur naturally, allowing Hiedler quite a broad and unique dimension of texture and depth – a distinctive approach to both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from this region.
92 points James Suckling
The wine has a fruity entrée with notes of white flowers, apple, green pears, subtle nuances of herbs; fine acidity, bright fruit character, some mirabelle, yellow apple, beautiful texture, very versatile food companion.
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