Marcel Deiss Alsace Riesling 2016
No one will argue that Deiss is among the top two or three domaines of Alsace. As to the rest, Jean-Michel Deiss is what the French call, a fouteur de merde, a shit-stirrer. After an old man on his deathbed entrusted him with one of Alsace's gems, the Schoenenbourg vineyard, Jean-Michel found that it was planted to an old field blend or “co-plantation.” He soon realized that this was the missing link in his quest for great wine and he replanted every single one of his top vineyards to such blends. Though this had once been the norm in Alsace, by the time Jean-Michel planted his grand crus to field blends, it was a technique reserved to lowly wines. Then, he took on the Alsatian cru system. Too many grand crus, and too large at that, but no premier crus was idiotic, he thought, and he self-appointed seven of his top vineyards “premier crus.” When you taste them, it makes crystalline sense, but this is technically an illegal practice and Jean-Michel has been battling the authorities ever since. His latest concern is to have ancient but currently illegal Alsatian varieties added to the list of authorized grapes. A troublemaker indeed, but the wines are absolutely magical.
This wine comes from two different vineyards of Domaine Marcel Deiss.
Beblenheim: Situated on the first foothills of the plain, its authenticity derives from its geological profile. Historically bordering a water source of superimposed beaches, this terroir has a very thick, homogeneous bedrock with a filtering, light, hot limestone surface soil, permitting a perennial acidity.
St Hippolyte: the vine struggles in this terroir, thus investing its energy in its grapes. Consequently, this terroir is one of the earliest to ripen in Alsace and early harvesting is required into order to maintain good acidity levels. It produces mineral and slightly saline wines.
Organic and Biodynamically farmed
This wine is aged on the lees for 1 year to achieve complexity and body. Bright yellow color with aromas of lemon zest and acacia. The flavors take on the profile of citrus, pineapple and white peach. The wine is extremely lively and balanced by the medium body and harmonious finish. Great to pair with rich or spicy dishes.
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